Christopher P. Smith of American Gemological Laboratories has done
extensive research regarding this somewhat new and very prevalent
ruby material seen on the market today. During the GILC conference
in Tucson, Smith presented the newest information on what he calls
“Composite Ruby”. The JEA was present for this presentation and feel
he is the foremost expert in this area.
There is much confusion surrounding this material, the process used
to create it, the correct nomenclature, and most importantly the special
care involved when purchasing or handling it. In an effort to provide
the most accurate information to JEA members, we contacted Smith, and
he graciously provided us with the following information.
The Process
It begins with low quality rough ruby in pink, purple, red and brown that
is usually opaque and contains extensive parting and fractures. (See
figure 3 in this 2007 AGL report)
The rough is then given an acid bath to further open the fractures and
clean out all foreign materials and discolorations. The acid bath
causes the rough to become very brittle, porous and when squeezed with
any pressure it can crumble. The next step in the process is to inject
the golden colored lead glass. The lead glass must be heated to a molten
state in order for it to flow into the crevices. The rough is treated
in bulk before being faceted. In most instances, the finished product
will be clumped together and must be broken apart before faceting. In
some cases, breaking the clumps apart is not possible, and instead of
breaking them apart, they are faceted into one single stone, essentially
being two separate pieces of composite ruby held together by lead glass.
The Color
Although the lead glass is a golden color, it augments the color of the
host ruby; it does not create the deep red color. This leads one to
wonder: How does it become so red? Chris explained that although the
untreated material is not visibly red, it is a matter of optics. In the
rough state it appears pink, red, purple or brown. After the acid bath
it typically appears whitish or pinkish due to the scattering of light.
Once the glass is infused into the crevices and fissures, the light is
no longer being scattered and we see red.
New Hardness, New Weight
The hardness of the composite ruby will vary in relation to the amount
of lead glass at the surface. More glass, less hardness. Not only can
the hardness become significantly reduced, but the weight can significantly
increase. Much of the weight in this material comes from the lead glass;
more glass, more weight. It is also possible to have more glass than ruby
present in any one finished piece. Smith advises not to keep this material
in parcels as it has an increased likelihood of becoming abraded.
Special Care Instructions
Although the lead glass has a refractive index similar to natural ruby, it
does not have the hardness or durability. As such, there are quite a few
important precautions one must take when owning or working with this material.
Wearing:
• As with pearls, it is best to put jewelry containing this material
on last and take it off first.
• Avoid all chemicals including household and jewelry cleaners. Even
lemon juice has been found to etch the lead glass present in composite ruby.
• Do not wear rings or bracelets that contain composite ruby when
gardening, doing housework, or other similar activities.
Jewelers:
• Do not use any chemicals, cleaners or steamers on jewelry containing
composite ruby.
• Composite ruby MUST be unmounted before doing any work.
• Avoid heat.
Names and the FTC
Chris Smith feels very strongly that this material should be referred to as
“Composite Ruby” and is identifying it as such on all AGL reports. A
“Composite” (two distinct and independent parts added together to create
a new single product) is very different from “Assembled” (various parts
bonded together, i.e. opal doublets) and accurately describes this glass
and ruby product.
What does the FTC have to say?
• The treatment MUST be disclosed clearly at the point of sale as it
is not permanent, significantly affects the value and requires special care.
• The term “Ruby” may not be used without a qualifier like “Composite”
• The terms: "real," "genuine," "natural," "precious," "semi-precious,"
or similar may NOT be used to describe this material as it is manufactured.
• It may not be called a “Gem” (or gemstone)
• The terms “flawless” and “perfect” may NOT be used
How Do I know if it is a Composite Ruby?
There are many different companies selling this product under as many different
names. Thankfully, this is an easy ID with a loupe or microscope. Look for
the flash effect and the bubbles.
Review the 2007 AGL report
We would like to thank Chris Smith for his valuable time and expertise.
Reports of refunds from Interweave Press for unfulfilled Colored Stone Magazine subscriptions are pouring in. We have ours, did you get yours?
If you called for a refund and haven't received your check in the mail yet, you might want to call and follow up.
Never requested a refund? It's not too late. Complete instructions for getting your money back are available in the JEA Consumer Member News link.
Click on Volume 2, Issue 1 and read the Colored Stone follow up article, "No News is Good News?".
The headline of their press release reads: "GEMS TV TO END OPERATIONAL CASH BURN IN USA, PLANS TO ACQUIRE 37.8% STAKE IN LEADING TELEVISION AND INTERNET JEWELRY RETAILER IN USA".
Who is that "leading television and internet jewelry retailer"? None other than Jewelry Television (JTV).
Gems TV's plans to close all operations in the USA are not dependent upon the acceptance of the merge with JTV. The press release states, "The cessation of the Group’s US operations is not contingent on the completion of the Proposed Investment. Gems TV will cease its US operations regardless of whether or not the Proposed Investment takes place."
A similar announcement was made by the now defunct "The Jewelry Channel", who ceased operations on December 1, 2008 at 1:00AM EST only to reappear hours later on the same station as the "Liquidation Channel".
Click to read the Gems TV Press Release.